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Extra info for Art Of Woodworking - Classic American Furniture
62 Guide End-lapped dovetail FIGURE 55A: Side dovetail guide Side Dovetail Guide A regular dovetail marking guide is not easy to use when laying out lap dovetails in the end of a framing member, because there isn’t enough bearing surface for the guide’s lip. A better item for this purpose is the side dovetail guide, because it offers more bearing surface (FIGURE 55A). ⁄" 34 Top 11⁄2" Make the side dovetail marking guide from a small rectangular block. Groove one side of it to accept a thin angled piece of wood, metal, or even stiff card cut to the appropriate dovetail angle.
Without the traditional tool, you can make it by scoring a line with a cutting gauge or cutting a narrow groove with a plough plane or a fenced hand router. Then enlarge it to the required width – and with appropriately angled sides – with any plane whose iron extends to the edge of its sole, a rebate plane for example. Alternatively, the notch could be ripped on a tablesaw with the blade angled appropriately. Such V-blocks are a good general solution for holding shaped or irregular stock. For a guaranteed fit when holding perfectly round stock, bore a hole in a solid block to the same diameter as the workpiece and then saw the bored block in half.
The fixture consists of two stout cleats securely nailed to the wooden floor, between which the seat blank could be wedged. 36 Batten clamped in middle of panel (when batten cannot be clamped at its ends) Extender jaws Handscrew FIGURE 26A: Jaw extender (shown in use) Handscrew jaw extender Wooden handscrews are available in various sizes, but unless you are lucky enough to locate an antique tool or are prepared to make your own you will be limited to the modern Jorgensen™ variety with metal screws.
Art Of Woodworking - Classic American Furniture by Time-Life Books